“They don’t make men like that anymore.” You can order a “G” Man - created by Mangialardo’s father, Joe, for two FBI agents headed to a game by the team formerly named after a racial slur - with a soft roll (from H&S Bakery) or a hard roll (Catania Bakery). He offers up an anecdote instead: “My grandfather could eat a hard roll with, or without, his dentures,” he says. Tony Mangialardo, third-generation proprietor of this storied Capitol Hill deli, doesn’t come right out and say those who prefer soft rolls are snowflakes.
